BACK IN TIME

Catalonia

Amid the natural beauty, rocky coast lines, and beaches of Catalonia are charming medieval villages, most only a few miles from the Mediterranean Sea.

Our destination was to visit several in the few days we had. With Jean driving and Gloria and me as passengers, we drove through the countryside, passing orchards and farms along the way. Usually located on a hill, with walled fortification surrounds due to the continuous warlike confrontations, we spent several hours in each town, exploring and remarking on how well-kept it is.

The old Gothic Quarters intrigue with ancient mortar and stone, wooden doors and wrought iron window covers. 

Narrow cobblestone streets wind by small eating places, where we would stop to enjoy a glass of red Spanish wine or the region’s sparkling champagne known as Cava.

In all, we visited five villages:

Peratallada

Tiny medieval village, spectacular atop a hill, labyrinth of cobbled streets, castle and town built on the site of a former fortress, and dated from the 1065.

Pals

Pals is a medieval village, once neglected but following much restoration, is now very attractive. It is Gothic in origin as can be seen from the pointy arches of some of the windows and doorways. A handsome archway provides access to the main square.

My favorite shot of us, looking like 45 again. Gloria, Jean and myself.

The main road into the village winds upwards towards the large tower which remains of the castle that once stood here. From the impressive ramparts here, we had views out over the surrounding countryside. Strolling around, we visit the church of Sant Pere.

Palau Sator  

Another small village listed in the Catalan Heritage Register, with 302 residents (*2014) living in well maintained medieval houses. Windows:

Ullastret

Lovely little historic village, not mentioned in the tourist booklets, but nevertheless, a gem. We entered the town’s church, Sant Pere d’Ullastret, a Romanesque church built in the 11^th century, and were treated to a rehearsal of a quartet of female singers, preparing for the evening’s concert. Later we returned to a standing-room only crowd, and a wonderful evening of music.

When the recital of music finished, the townspeople headed to the village square. The evening clearly was not yet over for next a local band began playing music for the Sardana, a traditional Spanish dance. This is danced in a circle while holding hands, and is native to the Spanish region of Catalonia. How lucky we felt to be present for these festivities!

Girona

This is a handsome town alongside the Rio Onyar. As the “old quarter” is approached, the beauty of tall pastel colored buildings along the quay makes a strong statement. 

Crossing a bridge, we have an afternoon to explore along the Rambla de la Libertat, two cathedrals, many shops, and street cafes, one of which served a signature Catalonian lunch for us of Pa amb tomquet: a crusty bread rubbed with tomato and garlic, drizzled with olive oil and very delicious.

Cathedral of St Feliu begun 14^th C, built over the tombs of St. Felix and St. Narcissus.

Cathedral Girona, architecture is Catalan Baroque, on the west face, but the remainder is Gothic with a single nave, the widest at nearly 70 feet, and dating from 1416. The entrance requires a climb of 90 steps up the grand staircase.

Inside, the tapestry, “The Creation”, is on display in the cathedral’s Treasury. We viewed this stunning and complex needlework panel, 11-12^th C, displayed behind protective glass. Other artistic treasures are easily seen: the Throne of Charlemagne, the Romanesque Cloister,

On our last evening together, we splurged at the Can Roquet, formerly several medieval dwellings and a church, now renovated as a restaurant. There were no reservations available, but we were accommodated anyway, outside under the huge tent and in view of a spectacular sunset. The meal was capped with a new and unusual taste treat: strawberry basil ice cream, made by the chef and absolutely delicious.