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It was a wonderful time. Now back home in New Jersey and remembering it all.

Thanks Jean, for the memories and special days in Spain, summer 2015.

And thanks Gloria for taking this photo.

We are so blessed that Jean was able to rent the house she and Bill had built, used as their go-to-retreat and had intended for their retirement. Sorry that he is no longer with us to enjoy this time here. Overlooking the Med, a 7 mile view. We had a marvelous visit and felt that Bill was with us all the time. Cheers!

BACK IN TIME

Catalonia

Amid the natural beauty, rocky coast lines, and beaches of Catalonia are charming medieval villages, most only a few miles from the Mediterranean Sea.

Our destination was to visit several in the few days we had. With Jean driving and Gloria and me as passengers, we drove through the countryside, passing orchards and farms along the way. Usually located on a hill, with walled fortification surrounds due to the continuous warlike confrontations, we spent several hours in each town, exploring and remarking on how well-kept it is.

The old Gothic Quarters intrigue with ancient mortar and stone, wooden doors and wrought iron window covers. 

Narrow cobblestone streets wind by small eating places, where we would stop to enjoy a glass of red Spanish wine or the region’s sparkling champagne known as Cava.

In all, we visited five villages:

Peratallada

Tiny medieval village, spectacular atop a hill, labyrinth of cobbled streets, castle and town built on the site of a former fortress, and dated from the 1065.

Pals

Pals is a medieval village, once neglected but following much restoration, is now very attractive. It is Gothic in origin as can be seen from the pointy arches of some of the windows and doorways. A handsome archway provides access to the main square.

My favorite shot of us, looking like 45 again. Gloria, Jean and myself.

The main road into the village winds upwards towards the large tower which remains of the castle that once stood here. From the impressive ramparts here, we had views out over the surrounding countryside. Strolling around, we visit the church of Sant Pere.

Palau Sator  

Another small village listed in the Catalan Heritage Register, with 302 residents (*2014) living in well maintained medieval houses. Windows:

Ullastret

Lovely little historic village, not mentioned in the tourist booklets, but nevertheless, a gem. We entered the town’s church, Sant Pere d’Ullastret, a Romanesque church built in the 11^th century, and were treated to a rehearsal of a quartet of female singers, preparing for the evening’s concert. Later we returned to a standing-room only crowd, and a wonderful evening of music.

When the recital of music finished, the townspeople headed to the village square. The evening clearly was not yet over for next a local band began playing music for the Sardana, a traditional Spanish dance. This is danced in a circle while holding hands, and is native to the Spanish region of Catalonia. How lucky we felt to be present for these festivities!

Girona

This is a handsome town alongside the Rio Onyar. As the “old quarter” is approached, the beauty of tall pastel colored buildings along the quay makes a strong statement. 

Crossing a bridge, we have an afternoon to explore along the Rambla de la Libertat, two cathedrals, many shops, and street cafes, one of which served a signature Catalonian lunch for us of Pa amb tomquet: a crusty bread rubbed with tomato and garlic, drizzled with olive oil and very delicious.

Cathedral of St Feliu begun 14^th C, built over the tombs of St. Felix and St. Narcissus.

Cathedral Girona, architecture is Catalan Baroque, on the west face, but the remainder is Gothic with a single nave, the widest at nearly 70 feet, and dating from 1416. The entrance requires a climb of 90 steps up the grand staircase.

Inside, the tapestry, “The Creation”, is on display in the cathedral’s Treasury. We viewed this stunning and complex needlework panel, 11-12^th C, displayed behind protective glass. Other artistic treasures are easily seen: the Throne of Charlemagne, the Romanesque Cloister,

On our last evening together, we splurged at the Can Roquet, formerly several medieval dwellings and a church, now renovated as a restaurant. There were no reservations available, but we were accommodated anyway, outside under the huge tent and in view of a spectacular sunset. The meal was capped with a new and unusual taste treat: strawberry basil ice cream, made by the chef and absolutely delicious.

MONSERRAT MONASTERY

High on a mountain, a peak of 4,000+ ft., of unusual geological formations is a basilica, a monastery, a sacred cove, trekking trails, and access to it all. We expected an afternoon here, but it was 8 hours of exploration before we left in the early evening. A "rack railway" brought us from the parking lot halfway up the mountain to the center of the monastery buildings. This is Catalonia's holiest place. First mentioned in texts from the 9th century, it is attended to by the resident Benedictine monks. The monastery was destroyed when the French attacked Catalonia in 1811, but it was rebuilt in 1844.

The cathedral is handsome, beautiful inside and and overlooks the square with distant views through an archway wall.

The only disappointment was the lack of a chance to hear the famous "boy choir". Singing once every day, throughout the year, we were to sad to learn that they were on vacation for a couple weeks. Therefore, then photo below from an Internet search.

To get further up, we took a funicular for a short ride to the beginning of the 3k trail leading to the sacred cove in which visions from centuries ago inspired the faithful to found a monastery here. Santa Cova: a very sacred cave housing a statuary of the virgin.

Also, recently, we had extraordinary visits to important medieval towns. Stop back for more on this explorations.

COSTA BRAVA

Running for 125 miles up the coast from Barcelona, this is know as the "wild" coast with rugged cliffs, sandy coves, beaches, and marinas. Wine, olives, fishing and tourists are the mainstay.

From Calonge where Jean's place is located high above the Mediterranean, we took off to the Sunday morning market in Palafrugell and the frenetic activity surrounding narrow streets with venders selling everything from clothing to food. Finally tiring of the crowds we took off to Pals, one of the several medieval towns nearby.

The three of us: Gloria, Jean and Nancy

The town a is real gem, on a hillside in the midst of farms, and not well known. My guide book only contains a single sentence mentioning the town. Jean learned of it through a Dutch friend who said it was well worth a visit. And, it was. Ancient city walls, an entrance portal and wonderful stonework, dating from the end of the 13th century. There was a small town fortified by stone walls against North African pirates, and St. Peter's church. All well restored today.

St. Peter's Church

GAUDI

The cathedral known as Sagrada Familia or sacred family was designed by the architect Antoni Gaudi. Europe's most unconventional church, on the forefront of modernist design, it has been 125 years in the making and still under construction.

There are other Gaudi masterpieces in Barcelona, several houses and a park, but this one is open to the public and by signing up for a tour, I bypassed the long lines waiting to enter.

There is much symbolism in the design elements. Above photo shows some of the 8 finished bell towers and when finally complete there will be 12, one for each of the apostles. Inside there are 52 towers supporting the structure. A few can be seen in this altar photo. They number represents for the number of Sunday's in the year. The altar:

THE CATHEDRAL

Basilica de Santa Marie del Mar

This beautiful church features the only pure style of Catalan Gothic architecture. Constructed with money donated by merchants and shipbuilders, work was begun in 1329 and completed 55 years later. Contrast this with the efforts building the better known Barcelona Cathedral, funded by wealthy families, begun in 1298, and not finished until 500 years later.

My morning flight arrival allowed time to begin exploring some of the city. Easily done by walking in the old "barrio" area. And so, I discovered this beautiful gem, the Santa Maria, only blocks from my Hotel Colon. It had been damaged severely by fire during the Spanish Civil war, yet now has been reconstructed and yields a sense of space and simplicity.

For a few Euros, a late afternoon guided tour climbed up the narrow circling staircase to the rooftop, where we saw the bell tower and overlooked the city skyline. The Spires on the Barcelona Cathedral (left) rise above everything else.

OFF TO BARCELONA

Barcelona….

Yes, that is where I am headed. One of the great cities that I have never visited. Flight out of Newark on the 5th for a quick trip of only 7 days to spend time with my friend Jean. She has managed to rent the house on the Spanish coast north of Barcelona that she and her husband, Bill, used to own.

 

Highlights for the city:

1.      The cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is defined by quirky art and architecture, imaginative food and vibrant street life. It has medieval roots, seen in the mazelike Gothic Quarter, but a modernist personality represented by architect Antoni Gaudí’s fantastical Sagrada Família church. Its restaurant scene ranges from fine dining to tiny tapas bars.

2.       I have a couple days in the city as a solo traveler where I am staying at the hotel across from the famous old cathedral. Then I meet up with Jean on the weekend and stay at her rented house. Home in time for our 61^st anniversary, next week.