A PARADE OF WELCOME

Home port on the 12th day of sailing from Tortola, December 12, 2015 :

After three years of a successful circumnavigation, thousands of miles and dozens of countries and ports, Moonbeam looks fine decorated with flags of countries visited and finally tied to home dock in Marco Island. Escorting us in, the city fire boat, a helicopter, a police boat, Sea Tow boat, and a group of friends on their own boats. Lucky for me to have been aboard for six of the passage legs. It has been an extraordinary journey!

NBC News carried the story on tonight's local news broadcast.

DAY 11: USA ... HAPPY IN KEY WEST

After 11 days, we pass the sea buoy at the beginning of the entrance channel to Key West. A good passage with only a few minor boat issues. Weather throughout was good with favorable winds. Perfect!

Sunrise at 7:00 and the seabuoy at 7:44 a.m.

DAY 10, FRIDAY APPROACHING KEY WEST

We have been heading west along the 700 mile north coast of Cuba. The Straights of Florida current runs strong, west to east and this choice of route had the least unfavorable current. At about 2/3 of the distance and still 120 miles from the Marial Hemingway entrance for Havanna, we turn away, to starboard and the outer sea buoy for Key West, 80 miles ahead.

After three years of his circumnavigation, thousands of miles and dozens of countries and ports, Capt Ken will soon be easing Moonbeam into the customs dock, handing in the paperwork, and officially clearing in, finally returning back to the United States. He says, "the journey has been the joy".

Sunrise photos below, first light at 6:30, color filling in 20 minutes later, and then facing forward, a full 360 degrees of color.

DAY 9, THURSDAY

It always amazes me to see the wonder thrown up in the sky by the sunrise. Here are a couple golden views, plus another with completely different color, and all from this morning. Facing east over the boat's stern, the sun pops up, painting everything with golden color. 

Turning to face west toward bow of the boat, golden color appears only in narrow brush strokes on a stanchion and the mast. Looking closely, additional color reflects within cloud shapes ahead.

Stupendous. Assuredly, the most glamorous so far.

The breeze shifted to port and forward of the beam. As the day wore on, it clocked and by sunset was on the nose. We were motoring. Just before sunset a few dolphins arrived at the bow for a few moments of play. And the sinking sun silhouetted a solitary freighter heading west on the quiet sea.

EIGHTH DAY ... DEC 8

WInds diminished overnight, but the morning still delivered another glorious show at first light.

As the day unfolded, winds remained low, even to only 4 kts, sails were furled and we drove westward. To our port side and only 12 miles away, lay the Cuban barrier islands on its north eastern shore. A virtual string of them, low in aspect, but clearly visible. Since the opening of a U.S. Embassy in Havanna earlier this year, relations between our two countries has improved. However, for cruising boats there are still many restrictions and State Department permits required to enter Cuban ports.

For me, I feel lucky and cherish the two racing opportunities that I had, Tampa to Havanna, in the late 90s. In 1998 on the former Moonbeam, a 40 ft sailboat and then again in 1999 on a somewhat smaller sailboat owned by my son, David, and his wife. Both strong and vivid memories now. 

SEVENTH DAY, DEC 7

Once again, morning light at 7:00 a.m. does not disappoint and turns out a fine sunrise.

With the 20 kt east wind still from astern, our American flag pokes through the aft stanchions.

Four hundred miles to Key West and where we expect to clear with US Customs before heading north, up Florida's west coast to final destination at Marco Island.

It was a perfect morning. It didn't take long before Mike and Alan joined me in the cockpit for my watch. We started talking about what it is that draws us to the sea. And, it is difficult to describe for those who have not been out on the ocean, or have not made a bluewater  passage, or not even been out for an afternoon on the water. Later Ken offered his thoughts. Here is how we four see it:

We decide that the allure is in casting off the shore lines, escaping and getting free from the ties ashore. Tasting and settling into the rhythm of life at sea. And even more, forgetting the "tick tock, tick tock" of our shoreside lives.

And, it is different for everyone: for some it is just the "passage" that elevates; for others it is the ports visited, domestic and foreign, that brings the joy: the destinations, the different cultures met and how our lives become enriched by it all. 

DAY SIX: DEC 6

Yesterday afternoon and through the night the stiff breeze continued. From the east at 30-35 kts, which translated to 25-30 over the d city. Heading is still west at 290, as we passed the western tip of Haiti to our port.

7:00 a.m. ... The morning sunrise once again showed off with golden color and light, and even produced a soft, faint rainbow.

And below, my hair-flying selfi, plus the final act as the morning painted a soft, faint rainbow over the scene.

The fresh water cooled fridge/freezer has not been working well and has needed constant priming to keep it working. Mike had put in a second more accessible inline filter to make reprimng the pump easier, but this morning the required frequency demanded another solution. He took the pump out, disassembled and cleaned and reinstalled. Fingers crossed for the problem to now be corrected.

DAY FIVE, DEC 5

Windy breeze from the East continues. The photo has flattened the look of the waves,

which were actually 8-10 ft in height, tops breaking off, foam aplenty.

DAY 4, FIRST LIGHT, DEC 4

With the morning light adding color, our little stopover in Luperon looks gorgeous today. Mirror flat water with clouds and boat shapes reflected on its surface. By 7:30 it was time to raise the anchor. Oops. Last evening the power windlass was problematic, but seemed that it would work well enough to lift chain and anchor.

Did not happen and Mike and Alan had to use the hand crank to lift the 50 feet we had deployed last night.  Of course, the mud bottom also came up, clinging to the chain links. No problem as Moonbeam has a wash-down pump on the bow with which everything could be rinsed. Oops again. Not working. Back to the 'ol bucket and rope to get sea water. 

By 8:00 we were on our way. 676 miles to Key West.

DAY THREE, BYE TO LEE

Saying so long to Lee at our "tie-up" in Dominican Republic..

Commanders Weather, a routing service has been following Moonbeam's passage offering weather reports and advice as the boat sailed round the world, sent an email mail today. Now, with only 7 days to landfall in Key West, Florida, they noted our stop in Puerto Plata and were wondering if we had come in due to "weather" ahead. No further clarification. 

Commanders did not know we had stopped in to only make a quick stop to drop off a crew and head back out to sea. But, reading that email, we were left to ponder its meaning. Bad stuff ahead? Winds from the east and astern now picked up and were gusting in the high 30s. That is actually OK, but soon we would have left the DR coast and no safe harbor if the so described "weather" turned to terrible. 

At sea,and with Luberon, the last availible safe harbor, we opted to put in there overnight. A complete sheltered small harbor, and decent anchoring in 19 feet. Even here the wind is blowing about 20-25 with gusts to 30. 

Later we learned that Commander's "weather" was only high velocity east winds. We could have sailed on, but would have missed this lovely spot, a chance to make a full dinner in the galley, plus enjoy some vino from the Boat's stock. Not too bad.

DAY THREE ... SUN GREETING

Early morning watch for me and again at the same time every day on this passage: 6-8 a.m.

At 7:00 a.m. today, it was another lovely morning. We are 40 hours out of Road Town. Winds continuing to hold around 20 krs from  the East. Boat is moving well, but the rolly sea conditions are back.

Morning  light.

We plan a quick stop this morning at Puerto Plata on the north coast of the Dominican Republic to drop off one crew. Last night word came by email that, back home in Florida, Lee's wife was taken to the ER. It was anxious moments until later we learned that there was nothing life threatening, nevertheless, Lee needed to fly home and this port was closest.

On the bow, in the morning light, Mike on the lookout for the port's entrance. We have to clear into customs in order to properly let Lee off. Mike raises the "Q" flag for proper arrival in the country.

DAY 2 ... MORNING LIGHT, DEC 2

On this second day, we are 21 hours out of Road Town. Yesterday's nasty, rolling conditions, with seas breaking from aft and sideways, are gone.

Usually on the first day out, it is preferred to have favorable conditions as the crew eases into the sailing, but we weren't given that. 

Instead we had big winds from astern, boat rocking from one side to the other. Even seasoned sailors like us five were feeling the effects. No one had an evening meal. Untouched, and the newly defrosted beef stew went into the fridge.

Rain overnight damped down the seas, Dawn broke broke to less wind ant the sun provided its morning show of light and color.

BACK FOR LAST SAIL OF 2015

By Tuesday morning I will have arrivved in Tortola and met the circumnavigating sailboat, Moonbeam and crew. This will be my 6th time onboard and the last leg of a three-year voyage. How lucky have I been to be tagging along in a "dashed line" around the world.

Same 5 crew that departed Marco Island on the first leg, return for this final one.

HOME AGAIN

In all, it was a total of 3 countries, 9 flight segments, plus other travel by bus, private car, taxi, train, river yacht, river boat, long boat, tuk tuk, horse cart. Missed having a ride on this ox cart seen in Mingun. Arrived in Newark safely and happy that Roy was there to meet me.

MINGUN

A cruise up river to the famous Mingun. While motoring on the way, I talked the captain into a turn at the helm. Here are some scenes on the river and arriving.

Arriving at the "port" which has is only a stretch of sand, our boat squeezes in between. To disembark, we cross over a plank onto the boat at left, then a second plank to get on the sandy shore.

And below a view of what it looks like on shore.Note the ox carts with "taxi".

MORE MANDALAY

Busy days as we tour with guide, Kyaw, and driver. I am seriously behind on these posts, but here are a few images until I get better internet and a few moments to recount our travels.

This is Kyaw, our guide. Easy to pronounce his name because it sounds like Joe.

MANDALAY

It has been three interesting and busy days since arriving here Monday morning on that early flight. Surprisingly I made it through the whole day from the 3:45 wake up call. I will admit, mid afternoon, I was feeling a meltdown, but  managed to soldier on. 

A brief visit to my friend Leila's workshop and then off to Sagaing Hill. Thousands of Buddhist pagodas and monasteries, plus a nunnery to see and visit a few. Sagaing, except for a brief period, early 14th century when it served as capital of a powerful dynasty, has since devoted itself to spiritual matters.

We have an English speaking guide, U Kyaw Kyaw, and driver. After parking, we climb up to this nunnery where where the young girls can be seen in their traditional dress of pink robes and shaved heads. Lunch was just finishing and we peeked in at the room. When finished, the girls file out carrying their dishes, slip into their sandals and head off to lessons and meditations.